Wine Tasting at Sharpham, Devon - Wednesday 10 August 2011

Wine tasting at a local vineyard is perhaps not the first thing that springs to mind when thinking about things to do in England, but the other day I found myself on a guided tour of Sharpham vineyard in Devon, followed by tasting of both their wine and cheese. I’d seen their web page, which was friendly and inviting, but I still didn’t expect much from the experience; after all, what do English people know about wine, and can they really produce anything worth drinking in the wet and cold English climate? It turns out that my worried were unfounded. They’ve been producing wine at Sharpham for quite a while now, and the results are some rather pleasant wines.

The experience started with a guided tour of the estate. You can walk on your own as well, as the routes are clearly marked, but having a guide really does make a difference. A group of random strangers who had all signed up for the walk were escorted though the sunny sloping hillsides where vines grow and produce lovely grapes. There were several stops with explanations and anecdotes, and we were encouraged to taste the grapes on the way, to experience the difference between the different varieties and also the differences in the same varieties created by varying locations. The walk lasted about 40 minutes, and we eventually arrived back at the farm where it all started. Here we were given an introduction to the production of the wines, from the methods used for crushing and fermenting, to the tasting process, while sipping a refreshing rosé sparkling wine.

Now it was time for our tasting, which I think we had all been looking forward to. We started off with a couple of white wines. I am not generally a big fan of white wines, but I have to say that these two were quite pleasant, although I still couldn’t drink a lot of them. Next it was the time of a lovely rosé. With the rosé we were served one of their cheeses; a ‘Rustic’. This was a magnificent cheese, creamy and full of flavour.

Finally we tasted two of the red wines, both served with cheese. Although the reds were from the same grape variety they were completely different wines, we were told this was due to the fermentation process. One was a lovely light wine, perfect for summer evenings, the other was a full-bodied more sturdy one, also beautiful but probably better for cold winter evenings in front of the fire.

After the tasting we were let loose in the farm shop, and between us we managed to fairly much decimate the contents. I tried to constrain myself so that my wallet wouldn’t complain too much, but I walked away clutching a few bottles of red wine and some cheeses too.

Sunday Lunch at Kitley House, Yealmpton, Devon - 7 August 2011

As we were driving along in the rain we suddenly spotted a sign saying something about Sunday lunches. It being late lunch time, we spun the car around and turned back to see if there was something edible on offer. For a while it looked a bit doubtful; after the initial welcoming sign advertising lunches, there was a long narrow lane overgrown with trees and shrubs surrounded by fields, with no signs to indicate that there was any activity, let alone a restaurant, at the end of it. But finally we got to a large stone house. We were relieved to see that there were lots of cars parked outside, as there were no other signs saying that it was a hotel and restaurant. We tentatively parked the car and went inside to have a look, and were warmly greeted by a member of staff. She invited us in for Sunday Lunch, assuring us that we were more than welcome, although the menu stated that the lunch service would end fifteen minutes later. The restaurant was quite busy, but the waiters kindly rearranged a couple of small tables for us so that all three of us could dine together. 

When the food arrived I knew we had made the right choice coming there. The presentation was beautiful, both for my 'Red Pepper and Tomato Soup' and the 'Chicken & Asparagus Terrine with Jumble of Dressed Leaves and Fruit Chutney'. My soup was lovely smooth and sweet, with crunchy fried strips of leeks decorating the middle. My friends said the terrine was also very nice, with flavours that complimented each other beautifully.

While waiting for the main course to arrive I leaned back in my comfortable chair and looked around me in the sumptuous red old library. The decor and furniture were beautiful, but had definitely seen better days. There was a slight air of reduced grandeour, with everything a bit worn out. We quietly whispered to each other that they really did need some more paying guests to afford some restoration. But in spite of the slight run-down look, the whole building still had an athmospere of luxury and comfort, and a lingering memory of a bygone, more affluent, era.

The main courses swiftly arrived. We had ordered the 'Field Mushrooms filled with Wild Mushroom Duxelle wrapped in Puff Pastry served on a Roast Pepper Coulis and Rosti Potato', the  'Delice of Grilled Salmon with Smoked Salmon Mash and Asparagus Spears', and the 'Roast Pork with Apple Sauce, New Season Potatoes and Seasonal Vegetables'. My mushrooms were a bit too rubbery for my liking, but the rest of the meal was delicious. The carrot was sweet and soft, the green beans cooked al dente, and the rosti soft and tasty. But I have to say that the best bit was the sauce; a red pepper coulis. While being sweet and delicate, the flavour was also fresh and powerful. My only complaint is that there wasn't quite enough of it, I could have eaten spoonfuls more. I'll have to try to replicate it at home, it was too delicious to only be eaten once. The salmon was, I was told, also delicious, particularly the mash which had smoked salmon in it. The pork, however, received mixed reviews. The sauce was nice but not exciting, the potatoes were roasted but must have rested a bit too long, for their skin was hard and chewy. And the green beans were a little too al dente. But the pork itself was delicious, which made the meal worth eating.

After all this food I was starting to feel quite full, but since we were there, and since it was such a lovely place, we decided to make an occasion of it, and so we ordered dessert as well. The dessert was an easy choice for all three of us; 'Dark Chocolate Torte with Chocolate Tagliatelle' (we're all chocaholics). It was a very pretty cake, beautifully flavoured and textured, and the perfect companion for both coffee and hot chocolate (made with nutella and steamed milk - yummy). 

In the end it was time to leave and drive on towards our destination. I was in that happy state where my tummy was full but not uncomfortable, and I couldn't help but smile even thouh it was raining heavily; I had thoroughly enjoyed myself over the last few hours. The food was excellent, the staff were friendly and curteous; what more could you want. I would strongly recommend that you make a detour to Kitley House should you find yourself nearby. 

Eden Project Bakery, Cornwall - Friday 5 August 2011

The Eden Project is so much more than food, but I have to admit that the first thing I noticed when I arrived this morning was the baked goods from the bakery. As we entered just after opening hours the bakery stafff were putting out this morning's fresh produce. And it looked delicious. Fresh soft bread and scones ... the aroma was mouthwatering. Sadly we'd had a full English breakfast less than an hour before, so there was no room in our tummies for those tempting goodies. So we decided to go for a walk in the greenhouse biomes first to work up an appetite, and they were fantastic. Not great for people who don't like humid heat, especially the tropical biome, but fantastic if you do. Tropical plants everywhere, with paths snaking along in between them. There were all sorts of big and small plants, and although there were lots of people it never felt crowded. After a climb to the top of the tropical biome we found a stall selling tropical smoothies. I'm not sure exactly what was in it, but it definitely included coconut milk, mint leaves, baobab juice and pineapple juice. It was just what we needed after a very warm and steep climb, and afterwards I was refreshed and ready for more plants. 

Second it was the turn of the Mediterranean biome, also very pretty, and much more comfortably tempered, but somehow not as impressive as the very exciting tropics - probably because I am much more used to seeing those plants around in the wild. The smell, however, was amazing. At the end of the biome was a refreshment area, where they were cooking huge pans of stew. There were wafts of tempting smells all over the biome, mixed in with the smell of the plants. Sadly there is only so much one can eat in one day, and we decided to check out the bakery before making decisions about food.

The bakery was situated between the two biomes, and was a huge bustling area with food preparation spaces plus long tables where guests could sit. There was also a lovely outside area, but most people who ventured out there very quickly turned around and came back in again, chased by curious wasps. Once in the bakery everything else seemed very far away, so we made our food choices and found somewhere to sit down. I had a greek salad with gluten free bread, very nice but not really out of the ordinary. My companions also tried the brown bread with raisins, which was apparently very good, and a vegetable frittata, which I was told was nice tasting, but a bit difficult to get into because the vegetables were so chunky. All in all though, it was a tasty meal, and just what we needed after a busy morning. Of course we couldn't leave it without something sweet, so to end the meal we shared a scone with clotted cream and jam. It was delicious, and I just wished there had been more room in my tummy so I could have eaten a whole one. 

Mason's Bistro

Mason's Bistro, Fossgate, York - Wednesday 3 August 2011


Having walked from one fully booked restaurant to another (unheard of on a Wednesday) it was with great relief that we sank into our chairs at Mason's Bistro. I'd been there a couple of times before, a few years ago, and had it at the back of my mind as we unsuccessfully tried to find somewhere to eat. Very surprisingly it was nearly empty this evening, but then it is located just a little bit too far from the main streets for people to just accidentally drop by. It was a bit different from how I remembered it, but that was mainly the food, the interior was the same; lovely wooden furniture and a charming floral feel to the textiles. It somehow reminds me of a French bistro, and it has that continenetal feel to it as well. The menu had, however, become far more English and the menus had a much cheaper feeling to them than what I remembered from my earlier visits. 

We eventually found somethng to eat; three of us went for the Vegetarian Skewers with rice and salad, and the last one had the Cajun chicken. I didn't realy expect much, but when the food arrived I was very pleasantly surprised. The skewers looked succulent (cherry tomatoes, onion, mushrooms and halloumi) and the rice and salad were beautifully presented. The chicken also looked invititng, with chips and salad, and I was told it was lovely. The vegetarian skewers were as good as they looked, and I thoroughly enjoyed my meal. 


The dessert menu was quite small, between us we chose the chocolate brownie and the treacle tart. Having chosen the brownie I regretted my choice as soon as the desserts arrived, it was a bit dry, and although ok not very exciting. The treacle tart on the other hand (I stole a spoon-full of it) was very nice. It was moist and sticky and very sweet. 


Although mabe not the most exciting culinary experience, it was a lovely evening, and the food was not half bad. I'll probably go back at some point, although maybe not for a while. 

Red Wine Sauce

A red wine sauce can accompany many dishes, from fritters to steamed vegetables to yorkshire puddings. It's very easy to make, but often brings with it a bit of a 'wow' factor. The taste will depend partly on the type of wine you use, so choose a nice one (although there is no need to go overboard and use a really expensive one).

1 large shallot
knob of butter
500ml - 750ml red wine (depending on whether or not you pour a glass for yourself)
500ml vegetable stock
fresh or dried herbs
salt and pepper
100ml double cream

Finely chop your shallot and sweat it in the butter for 5 minutes until soft and golden. Add the red wine and bring to the boil. Boil for about 30 minutes or until reduced by about half. Add the vegetable stock and again reduce until you've got half the amount of liquid. Add herbs, salt and pepper to taste.

Finally add the cream and whisk it in. You may not need to use all of the cream, this depends on taste and how creamy you want the sauce. You don't even need to add any cream, it works just as well without, although the taste will be sharper and not as rounded as if there was cream in it. Make sure you don't boil the sauce after the cream is added, as the cream will then split.

The sauce can be served as a smooth jus if you pour it through a sieve to remove the shallots. You can alternatively choose to serve it with the bits of shallots in (I like the bits of shallot, they are quite sweet but savoury and add a bit of interest).

Yorkshire Puddings

Making these is easier than you would think, and they're very impressive to look at. And also more tasty than those pre-made ones you can buy in the shops. The recipe was given to me by a chef many years ago, and has served me well ever since. It works with the same quantities whether the flour is made from wheat or if it's gluten free. And the brilliant thing is that it is very easy to adjust depending on how many you are cooking for, as the quantities are measured by volume, and it is the same for all 3 main ingredients. If you should have some spare batter after you've finished, then it's brilliant for breakfast pancakes the following morning. Just add some cardamom or cinnamon, and off you go.

Makes 16

200ml eggs (approx 4 large eggs)
200ml whole milk
200ml flour (I used Dove's Farm gluten free white bread flour)
a pinch of salt


Add all ingredients to a large bowl (sift the flour), and use an electric mixer to whisk well. This is to add air to the batter and make the puddings rise when they are baked. Pour the batter into a jug, and leave it in the fridge to rest for half an hour or so.


In the meantime, heat your oven to the highest temperature possible. On the top shelf, place a tray of yorkshire pudding trays. If you haven't got this, you can use a metal muffin tray, or even a large baking dish to make one giant pudding for people to share. Pour a little vegetable oil into the base of each pudding hole before placing the tray in the oven.


When the oil is steaming hot, fetch your batter mix from the fridge, and prepare for the baking. The trick is to be quick, you don't want to let the heat escape from the oven, so make sure you are ready before opening the oven door. What you need to have ready is the batter and some oven gloves. Open the oven door, quickly pour a little bit of batter in each pudding hole, and then quickly but carefully move the tray down to the middle of the oven. Close the door, and turn the heat down to 190°C. Bake for 35 minutes.